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Front Upper Control Arm Suspension Brake Rotor Pad For 1998-2004 S10 GMC Sonoma

Original price was: $358.45.Current price is: $71.69.
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Front Tie Rod End Suspension Kit with Brake Rotor Pad For 2002-2003 GMC Envoy

Original price was: $297.45.Current price is: $74.36.
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Front Control Arm Suspension Brake Rotor Pad For 2000-2003 Ford F-250 Super Duty

Original price was: $454.45.Current price is: $90.89.

SKU: ECCP-837293 Category: Tag:

Description

Product Specifics
Brand: ECCPP
UPC: Does not apply
Manufacturer Part Number: EC83729301
Placement on Vehicle: Front+Outer+Left+Right+Upper+Inner
Universal Fitment: No
Manufacturer Warranty: 1 Years
Features: Greasable
Items Included: Mounting Hardware
Performance Part: No
Type: Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly
Interchange Part Number: K8772,ES3366T,ES3367T,K8700,K8739T,K8722T,K8724T,ES3369T,ES3370T
OE/OEM Part Number: 54078,car inner outer tie rod end replacement,rods ends,Idler Arm
Superseded Part Number: anti sway bar car linkage,anti roll bar,stabilizer bar linkage
Cotter Pin Hole: Yes
Material: Alloy Steel
Mounting Style: Bolt-On
Finish: Coated
Rotor Style: Drilled & Slotted
Rotors Finish: Zinc Plated
Pads Material: Ceramic
Suspension Control Arm Replacement Guideline
Control arms are installed in pairs on the front and rear axle and connect the chassis to the wheels as part of the suspension. Therefore, they have a significant influence on the driving characteristics of the vehicle.

A dynamic or a comfortable driving style? The control arms are individually adjusted to the vehicle depending on the desired characteristics. They also absorb lateral movements and forces resulting from driving off and braking.

Picture(A)

Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline
If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely.

This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod.

Picture(A)

Ball Joint Replacement Guideline
If there is a knocking or clunking noise in the area of the front axle when the car is traveling over road bumps, potholes or curbs, then there is usually a defect in a component of the wheel suspension.

Picture(A)

The side of the front axle from which the (vibration) noise is emanating can already be determined during a test drive. The type of noise also already provides certain indications for maintenance regarding which components might be faulty.

Picture(B)

1.Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels.

2.To loosen the fastening screws and fixing nuts of the compression ball joint more easily, spray them with rust remover and allow to act for a few minutes.

Picture(C)

3.Loosen the fastening screws of the broken ball joint on the control arm and remove the nuts.

Picture(D)

4.Loosen and remove the fixing nut of the ball joint on the steering knuckle.

Tip:If the ball stud rotates, hold the ball stud in place with a hexagon socket.

Picture(E)

5.Remove the bad or worn ball joint from the control arm.

6.Loosen the compression ball joint on the steering knuckle using a suitable special tool.

Picture(F)

7.Clean the cone connection.

Tip:For better sealing and durability of the ball joint sleeve, a little silicone grease can be applied to the contact surface.

Picture(G)

8.Insert new compression ball joint in the control arm and steering knuckle and tighten with new fixing nuts.

9.Reinstall front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

10.Measure the chassis and adjust it using the various holes on the compression ball joint if necessary.

11.Finally, carry out a test drive.

Warning
Warning:Depending on the axle design, the control arm may need to be secured against falling with a suitable device, e.g. a transmission lifter.

2.Treat the fixing screws and nuts of the control arm with rust solvent and leave it to work for a few minutes so that they are easier to loosen.

3.On vehicles with automatic headlight levelling, it may be necessary to detach the leveling sensor from the control arm.

Picture(C)

4.If the stabilizer is connected to the control arm, the next step is to loosen and remove the corresponding stabiliser fixing screws.

5.Loosen and remove the control arm fixing screws.

6.Loosen the ball joint at the steering knuckle with a suitable special tool (e.g. a puller).

7.Remove the old control arm.

Picture(D)

8.Clean the mounting flange of the ball joint pin on the steering knuckle with sandpaper and then with brake cleaner. Otherwise single rust particles can enter the new control arm joint via the ball pin, potentially leading to premature failure of the joint.

Picture(E)

9.Fit the new control arm with the supplied accessories and attach new fixing screws and nuts.

Picture(F)

10.Reattach the stabilizer and, if applicable, the leveling sensor for headlight leveling to the control arm.

A defective control arm can manifest in the following ways
(1).Noise (squeaking, creaking, rumbling).

(2).Deteriorating driveability.

(3).Increasingly woolly and imprecise steering.

(4).Uneven tyre wear.

Tip:If the control arm is in working order, it is possible to only replace the defective bearings and joints. However, replacing bearings, control arm bushings and ball joints can be very complex and costly.

Picture(B)

1.First lift the vehicle using a car lift, ideally a wheel-free four-post car lift. This makes it easier to correctly tighten the control arm fixing screws.

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