Description
Tie-Rod End
The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve.
Outer Tie-Rod End
Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturerÂ’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles.
Inner Tie-Rod End
Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage.
Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability.
Sway Bar
Sway bars transmit torsional forces occurring between the body and the chassis to the stabilizer of the particular axle. Depending on the design of the front or rear axle, they form the necessary connection for optimal interplay between wheel guidance and stabilizer. The body roll of the vehicle during cornering is minimized, ensuring safe roadholding.
Some control arm bushings can be replaced with the arm still on the vehicle; others require removal of the arm. On a few applications, control arm bushings are threaded into the control arm, but most are press fitted.
Press fitted bushings can be removed and installed with a bushing driver. Some may be removed with an air chisel, and some may be pressed into the arm with the retaining nut. This method can require periodic vibration of the control arm to coax the bushing into place.
Care must be used in bushing replacement to avoid damage to the control arm. To properly position the bushing, the weight of the vehicle must be on the suspension before tightening the nut on most designs. Check the service information for the vehicle for the proper procedure.
Replacement of other types of suspension bushings is generally straightforward. Consult the service information.
Product Specifics
Brand: ECCPP
Manufacturer Part Number: E80494801CP
Interchange Part Number: ES800373 ES800374 K80768 K80769
Placement on Vehicle: Left, Right, Front,Ouer
OE/OEM Part Number: 5132SNAA2 51321SNAA2
Cross Part Number: 1281423, 5354SNAA2, 5354SNEA1, 5354SNEA2
Kit or Single Part: Kit
Kit Parts Included: Tie Rod End Stabilizer Bar Link
Superseded Part Number: 1281424, 5356SNAA1, 5356SNEA1, 5356SNEA2
Package Included: 4pcs
Items Included: Mounting Hardware
Country/Region of Manufacture: China
Bundle Listing: Yes
Manufacturer Warranty: 10 Year
Greasable or Sealed: Greasable
Adjustable: Yes
Universal Fitment: No
UPC: Does not apply
UPC: Does not apply
Type: Sway Bar Link
Features: Greasable
While driving, the following signs may indicate a faulty sway bar stabilizer link
(1).Rattling and thumping noises on rough roads.
(2).Imprecise vehicle handling.
(3).Stronger inclination of the vehicle during cornering.
If the sway bar stabilizer link is found to be defective, it should be replaced as described below.
Picture(A)
1.Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
Tip:Always check both stabilizer links and replace them in pairs if necessary.
2.Spray fastening nuts of the stabilizer link with rust remover and let act for a few minutes.
Picture(B)
3.Loosen the lower fastening nut of the stabilizer link at the stabilizer and remove.
Tip:If the ball stud also starts to turn, hold it with a suitable tool.
4.Press stabilizer link out of torsion bar.
Picture(C)
5.Loosen the upper fastening nut of the stabilizer link at the suspension strut and remove it.
Tip:If the ball stud also starts to turn, hold it with a suitable tool.
Picture(D)
6.Press stabilizer link at suspension strut out of bracket.
Picture(E)
7.Insert new stabilizer link at suspension strut.
Picture(F)
8.Tighten stabilizer link at suspension strut to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.
Picture(G)
9.Insert new stabilizer link at stabilizer.
10.Tighten stabilizer link at stabilizer to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.
Picture(H)
11.Remount the front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Tip:Even if replacing the stabilizer link does not directly affect the chassis setting, we recommend checking the axle setting and adjusting if necessary after working on the suspension.
12.Conclude with a test drive.
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