Description
Suspension Control Arm
Tie-Rod End
The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve.
Outer Tie-Rod End
Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturerÂ’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles.
Inner Tie-Rod End
Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage.
Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability.
Product Specifics
Brand: ECCPP
Manufacturer Part Number: E80160001CP
Interchange Part Number: K7211 K7213 ES3529
OE/OEM Part Number: 461642, 464642, K7213 461643, K7211
partslink-number: 5393AA, 58392AA, 586282AA
Kit Parts Included: Tie Rod End, Control Arm
Placement on Vehicle: Front,Left,Right,Outer,Lower
Manufacturer Warranty: 10 Year
Kit or Single Part: Kit
Items Included: Mounting Hardware
Type: Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly
Country/Region of Manufacture: China
Bundle Listing: Yes
Universal Fitment: No
Greasable or Sealed: Greasable
Adjustable: Yes
Package Included: 4Pcs
Surface Finish: Standard
UPC: 707427985841
UPC: 707427985841
Features: Greasable
Mounting Style: Bolt-On
Suspension Control Arm Replacement Guideline
Control arms are installed in pairs on the front and rear axle and connect the chassis to the wheels as part of the suspension. Therefore, they have a significant influence on the driving characteristics of the vehicle.
A dynamic or a comfortable driving style? The control arms are individually adjusted to the vehicle depending on the desired characteristics. They also absorb lateral movements and forces resulting from driving off and braking.
Picture(A)
Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline
If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely.
This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod.
Picture(A)
Warning
Warning:Depending on the axle design, the control arm may need to be secured against falling with a suitable device, e.g. a transmission lifter.
2.Treat the fixing screws and nuts of the control arm with rust solvent and leave it to work for a few minutes so that they are easier to loosen.
3.On vehicles with automatic headlight levelling, it may be necessary to detach the leveling sensor from the control arm.
Picture(C)
4.If the stabilizer is connected to the control arm, the next step is to loosen and remove the corresponding stabiliser fixing screws.
5.Loosen and remove the control arm fixing screws.
6.Loosen the ball joint at the steering knuckle with a suitable special tool (e.g. a puller).
7.Remove the old control arm.
Picture(D)
8.Clean the mounting flange of the ball joint pin on the steering knuckle with sandpaper and then with brake cleaner. Otherwise single rust particles can enter the new control arm joint via the ball pin, potentially leading to premature failure of the joint.
Picture(E)
9.Fit the new control arm with the supplied accessories and attach new fixing screws and nuts.
Picture(F)
10.Reattach the stabilizer and, if applicable, the leveling sensor for headlight leveling to the control arm.
A defective control arm can manifest in the following ways
(1).Noise (squeaking, creaking, rumbling).
(2).Deteriorating driveability.
(3).Increasingly woolly and imprecise steering.
(4).Uneven tyre wear.
Tip:If the control arm is in working order, it is possible to only replace the defective bearings and joints. However, replacing bearings, control arm bushings and ball joints can be very complex and costly.
Picture(B)
1.First lift the vehicle using a car lift, ideally a wheel-free four-post car lift. This makes it easier to correctly tighten the control arm fixing screws.
The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice
(1).Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
(2).Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
(3).Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
(4).Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.
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