Description
Ball Joint
Ball joints may be grouped into two classifications, load carrying and non-load carrying. Ball joints may be manufactured with forged, stamped, cold-formed, or screw-machined housings. The coil spring is seated on the control arm to which the load-carrying ball joint is attached. For example, when the coil spring is mounted between the lower control arm and the chassis, the lower ball joint is a load-carrying joint. In a torsion bar suspension, the load-carrying ball joint is mounted on the control arm to which the torsion bar is attached. A load-carrying ball joint supports the vehicle weight.
Tie-Rod End
The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve.
Outer Tie-Rod End
Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturerÂ’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles.
Inner Tie-Rod End
Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage.
Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability.
Product Specifics
Brand: ECCPP
Manufacturer Part Number: E81001701CP
Interchange Part Number: K8477
OE/OEM Part Number: ES3004RL
Placement on Vehicle: Left+Right+Front+Lower+Outer
Items Included: Mounting Hardware
Manufacturer Warranty: 10 Year
Cross Reference Part Number: 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997
Fitment: For Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar
Kit Parts Included: Ball Joint,Tie Rod End
Kit or Single Part: Kit
Surface Finish: Standard
UPC: Does not apply
Quantity: 4pcs
Universal Fitment: No
Greasable or Sealed: Greasable
Bundle Listing: Yes
OE Spec or Performance/Custom: OE Spec
Type: Tie Rod Linkage
Features: Greasable
Cotter Pin Hole: Yes
Ball Joint Replacement Guideline
If there is a knocking or clunking noise in the area of the front axle when the car is traveling over road bumps, potholes or curbs, then there is usually a defect in a component of the wheel suspension.
Picture(A)
The side of the front axle from which the (vibration) noise is emanating can already be determined during a test drive. The type of noise also already provides certain indications for maintenance regarding which components might be faulty.
Picture(B)
1.Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels.
2.To loosen the fastening screws and fixing nuts of the compression ball joint more easily, spray them with rust remover and allow to act for a few minutes.
Picture(C)
3.Loosen the fastening screws of the broken ball joint on the control arm and remove the nuts.
Picture(D)
4.Loosen and remove the fixing nut of the ball joint on the steering knuckle.
Tip:If the ball stud rotates, hold the ball stud in place with a hexagon socket.
Picture(E)
5.Remove the bad or worn ball joint from the control arm.
6.Loosen the compression ball joint on the steering knuckle using a suitable special tool.
Picture(F)
7.Clean the cone connection.
Tip:For better sealing and durability of the ball joint sleeve, a little silicone grease can be applied to the contact surface.
Picture(G)
8.Insert new compression ball joint in the control arm and steering knuckle and tighten with new fixing nuts.
9.Reinstall front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
10.Measure the chassis and adjust it using the various holes on the compression ball joint if necessary.
11.Finally, carry out a test drive.
Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline
If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely.
This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod.
Picture(A)
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