Description
Suspension Control Arm
Product Specifics
Brand: ECCPP
Manufacturer Part Number: E80116901CP
Interchange Part Number: K9643,K90446,K90447
OE/OEM Part Number: Front Upper Control Arm and Ball Joint and Lower Ball Joint
Items Included: Mounting Hardware
Placement on Vehicle: Left, Right, Front
Surface Finish: Premium Quality
Kit INcludes: 4PCS
Cross Part Number: 5122SM1A1,5122SM1A2,5122SM1AO2,5122SM43,5122SM413,5145SV4,5146SV4
Fitment: For 1995 – 1998 HONDA ODYSSEY
Manufacturer Warranty: 10 Year
Kit Parts Included: Ball Joint, Control Arm
Universal Fitment: No
Greasable or Sealed: Greasable
Bundle Listing: yes
Adjustabe: yes
UPC: 707427977266
UPC: 707427977266
Features: Greasable
Cotter Pin Hole: Yes
Material: Alloy Steel
Mounting Style: Bolt-On
Finish: Coated
Suspension Control Arm Replacement Guideline
Control arms are installed in pairs on the front and rear axle and connect the chassis to the wheels as part of the suspension. Therefore, they have a significant influence on the driving characteristics of the vehicle.
A dynamic or a comfortable driving style? The control arms are individually adjusted to the vehicle depending on the desired characteristics. They also absorb lateral movements and forces resulting from driving off and braking.
Picture(A)
Ball Joint Replacement Guideline
If there is a knocking or clunking noise in the area of the front axle when the car is traveling over road bumps, potholes or curbs, then there is usually a defect in a component of the wheel suspension.
Picture(A)
The side of the front axle from which the (vibration) noise is emanating can already be determined during a test drive. The type of noise also already provides certain indications for maintenance regarding which components might be faulty.
Picture(B)
1.Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels.
2.To loosen the fastening screws and fixing nuts of the compression ball joint more easily, spray them with rust remover and allow to act for a few minutes.
Picture(C)
3.Loosen the fastening screws of the broken ball joint on the control arm and remove the nuts.
Picture(D)
4.Loosen and remove the fixing nut of the ball joint on the steering knuckle.
Tip:If the ball stud rotates, hold the ball stud in place with a hexagon socket.
Picture(E)
5.Remove the bad or worn ball joint from the control arm.
6.Loosen the compression ball joint on the steering knuckle using a suitable special tool.
Picture(F)
7.Clean the cone connection.
Tip:For better sealing and durability of the ball joint sleeve, a little silicone grease can be applied to the contact surface.
Picture(G)
8.Insert new compression ball joint in the control arm and steering knuckle and tighten with new fixing nuts.
9.Reinstall front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
10.Measure the chassis and adjust it using the various holes on the compression ball joint if necessary.
11.Finally, carry out a test drive.
Warning
Warning:Depending on the axle design, the control arm may need to be secured against falling with a suitable device, e.g. a transmission lifter.
2.Treat the fixing screws and nuts of the control arm with rust solvent and leave it to work for a few minutes so that they are easier to loosen.
3.On vehicles with automatic headlight levelling, it may be necessary to detach the leveling sensor from the control arm.
Picture(C)
4.If the stabilizer is connected to the control arm, the next step is to loosen and remove the corresponding stabiliser fixing screws.
5.Loosen and remove the control arm fixing screws.
6.Loosen the ball joint at the steering knuckle with a suitable special tool (e.g. a puller).
7.Remove the old control arm.
Picture(D)
8.Clean the mounting flange of the ball joint pin on the steering knuckle with sandpaper and then with brake cleaner. Otherwise single rust particles can enter the new control arm joint via the ball pin, potentially leading to premature failure of the joint.
Picture(E)
9.Fit the new control arm with the supplied accessories and attach new fixing screws and nuts.
Picture(F)
10.Reattach the stabilizer and, if applicable, the leveling sensor for headlight leveling to the control arm.
A defective control arm can manifest in the following ways
(1).Noise (squeaking, creaking, rumbling).
(2).Deteriorating driveability.
(3).Increasingly woolly and imprecise steering.
(4).Uneven tyre wear.
Tip:If the control arm is in working order, it is possible to only replace the defective bearings and joints. However, replacing bearings, control arm bushings and ball joints can be very complex and costly.
Picture(B)
1.First lift the vehicle using a car lift, ideally a wheel-free four-post car lift. This makes it easier to correctly tighten the control arm fixing screws.
The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice
(1).Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
(2).Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
(3).Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
(4).Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.
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