Description
Product Specifics
Brand: ECCPP
Manufacturer Part Number: E80143601CP
Interchange Part Number: K6693 K6696 K6535 ES3609 ES3488 K6654 K80631 K620054
OE/OEM Part Number: 12471383, 1247935, 15891516, 19153392, 2662656 157821 12546193
Kit or Single Part: Kit
Kit Includs: 14PCS
UPC: 707427983922
Greasable or Sealed: Greasable
Kit Parts Included: Stabilizer Bar Link Kit, Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly
Placement on Vehicle: Left, Right, Front,Upper,Lower,Inner,Outer
Manufacturer Warranty: 10 Year
Universal Fitment: No
Items Included: Mounting Hardware
partslink-number: 1247951, 19168473 12471649, 15891515 15224737, 2595442 K6428
Country/Region of Manufacture: China
Surface Finish: Premium Quality
Cross Part Number: 12475477, 1927137 1549881, 2595442 138558, 12542993 15167767
Superseded Part Number: 12371381, 12471375, 15295861, 19149619, 265921, 894375
Custom Bundle: Yes
Adjustable: Yes
Fitment1: For Gmc Sierra 1500,2500,3500,Xl 2500,Hummer H2
Cross Reference Part Number: 2001,2002,2003,2004,2005,2006,2007,2008,2009,2010
Fitment2: For Chevrolet Avalanche 1500,2500,3500
Cross Reference Part Number: 2001,2002,2003,2004,2005,2006,2007,2008,2009,2010
Type: Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly
Features: Greasable
Finish: Coated
Cotter Pin Hole: Yes
Material: Alloy Steel
Mounting Style: Bolt-On
Ball Joint Replacement Guideline
If there is a knocking or clunking noise in the area of the front axle when the car is traveling over road bumps, potholes or curbs, then there is usually a defect in a component of the wheel suspension.
Picture(A)
The side of the front axle from which the (vibration) noise is emanating can already be determined during a test drive. The type of noise also already provides certain indications for maintenance regarding which components might be faulty.
Picture(B)
1.Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels.
2.To loosen the fastening screws and fixing nuts of the compression ball joint more easily, spray them with rust remover and allow to act for a few minutes.
Picture(C)
3.Loosen the fastening screws of the broken ball joint on the control arm and remove the nuts.
Picture(D)
4.Loosen and remove the fixing nut of the ball joint on the steering knuckle.
Tip:If the ball stud rotates, hold the ball stud in place with a hexagon socket.
Picture(E)
5.Remove the bad or worn ball joint from the control arm.
6.Loosen the compression ball joint on the steering knuckle using a suitable special tool.
Picture(F)
7.Clean the cone connection.
Tip:For better sealing and durability of the ball joint sleeve, a little silicone grease can be applied to the contact surface.
Picture(G)
8.Insert new compression ball joint in the control arm and steering knuckle and tighten with new fixing nuts.
9.Reinstall front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
10.Measure the chassis and adjust it using the various holes on the compression ball joint if necessary.
11.Finally, carry out a test drive.
Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline
If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely.
This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod.
Picture(A)
While driving, the following signs may indicate a faulty sway bar stabilizer link
(1).Rattling and thumping noises on rough roads.
(2).Imprecise vehicle handling.
(3).Stronger inclination of the vehicle during cornering.
If the sway bar stabilizer link is found to be defective, it should be replaced as described below.
Picture(A)
1.Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
Tip:Always check both stabilizer links and replace them in pairs if necessary.
2.Spray fastening nuts of the stabilizer link with rust remover and let act for a few minutes.
Picture(B)
3.Loosen the lower fastening nut of the stabilizer link at the stabilizer and remove.
Tip:If the ball stud also starts to turn, hold it with a suitable tool.
4.Press stabilizer link out of torsion bar.
Picture(C)
5.Loosen the upper fastening nut of the stabilizer link at the suspension strut and remove it.
Tip:If the ball stud also starts to turn, hold it with a suitable tool.
Picture(D)
6.Press stabilizer link at suspension strut out of bracket.
Picture(E)
7.Insert new stabilizer link at suspension strut.
Picture(F)
8.Tighten stabilizer link at suspension strut to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.
Picture(G)
9.Insert new stabilizer link at stabilizer.
10.Tighten stabilizer link at stabilizer to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.
Picture(H)
11.Remount the front wheels. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel studs to the tightening torque specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Tip:Even if replacing the stabilizer link does not directly affect the chassis setting, we recommend checking the axle setting and adjusting if necessary after working on the suspension.
12.Conclude with a test drive.
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